Ampoule, serum, essence, and toner: differences and how to use them

In Korean cosmetics, it is common to find toners, essences, serums, and ampoules in the same line. There is no legal definition for each term and each brand uses them in its own way, but in general, they follow this logic.

Toner

This is the first liquid applied after cleansing. It is usually very light and can provide hydration or include mild exfoliants such as AHA, BHA, PHA, or LHA. For example, the Centella Toning Toner includes PHA, according to the manufacturer. See Toners and mists.

Essence

Slightly denser than a toner and lighter than a serum. Many brands place it right after the toner or use it as an alternative to it, such as the Probio-Cica Essence Toner.

Serum and ampoule

These are the treatment step, with formulas more concentrated in one or several active ingredients. In Korea, ampoule is often used for even more concentrated formulas or for intensive use, although in practice, the difference from a serum depends on each brand. They are applied after the toner or essence and before the cream. Examples: Centella Ampoule and Hyalu-Cica Blue Serum. See Ampoules and serums.

Cream

It seals the routine and helps maintain hydration. In the morning, sunscreen goes after the cream. See Creams.

Do I need all of them?

No. An effective routine can consist of just a cleanser, a serum or ampoule, a cream, and sunscreen. It is better to use a few products that suit you well than many at once. Read more on what order to apply your routine in.

Informative article. Does not replace the advice of a healthcare professional.